So here I continue the story, sorry for starting with such a news, but well. That how it was :)
I had
really difficult night and I almost didn’t sleep anything, my stomach was
really strange. The previous night I have ordered heavier breakfast(that’s how
it works here, if you want to have breakfast on time, you need to order it the
night before). This wasn’t best idea for my stomach and from the morning the
story of going to toilet has started. Before we left Manang I was only 3 times
in toilet. I took some polish carbon and amodium from guys to block it, but
still I was very weak and not feeling well at all. What to do, I need to walk.
I made 2 hours of walking to next village, toilet again and I pushed my self as
well to puke, as I felt it will be better to get rid of everything which I had
in stomach. I took some mint tea’s, carbon and amodium again and started to
walk again.
Gangapurna glacier
Lake below the glacier
Manang valley
Gangapurna from the lake level
We had to climb 300m up to Shree Kharka(4076m) and it took me forever. I don’t remember much from it, just making one step after another, I was really weak. We got there, I took soup and went to sleep. After 3,5 h nap I got a bit better, still some trips to toilet but well. I ordered plain rice for early dinner and for next 4 hours I was pushing every single fork. I didn’t finish the portion, but my stomach since had something easy to digest was getting better.
On the way to "Shitty Kharka"
A bit further, you can see the difference :)
1.04 So,
April has started really difficult for me, luckily we had about 2-3 hours to
walk and only 100m up to Tilicho Lake Base Camp(4180m), so I gather all energy
and slowly started to walk further. I had some headaches, I was weak and I
started to think that the reason might be AMS. When you are in the situation,
the place where is no rescue you really start to think about all different
possibilities and way’s to save your self in case of worst scenario and I had
to think about it as well. I got dal soup with rice for lunch and dinner, easy
to digest and should give me some energy as well. As well we had to cross
section which was called very dangerous with land slides and rock fallings with
high speed over the trail.
Somewhere there is the Tilicho Lake
Slowly going down....
View
2.04
I had terrible night, again almost no sleeping, I had so many different gases
going out of my body on both holes, but only gases. I needed to stand up to
burp, the other ones were going without moving. Breakfast on time, and
surprisingly warm outside(nothing to compare with ABC month ago). It was day
when we needed to hike up to 4900m. We packed one back pack and went early
morning as first ones.
How you dry clothes at 4180m?
Our path...
I
took backpack as first one, and from beginning guys where quite far ahead of
me, my belly was never so big before. Just filled with gases and going higher I
think didn’t helped him, but what to do. Push. After 1,5h I gave backpack to
Alex as I was really weak. After getting lighter was easier for me to catch up
with guys, still helping atmosphere with some different gases I was feeling
better.
I really like panoramas....
Stunning view from Tilicho Lake
Mountains are really close
Together?
A bit of snow up there
At some
point we went off track and started to climb last part just before the ridge.
It was really stupid to split up and go by this way, but we did it and in the
end it is one of most memorable moment by far. Adrenaline got to my head, no
pains any more, just focus on each step(as we were walking on very loose ground
and most the rocks when you step on them were just falling a part and sliding
down). After more then one hour I got to ridge and started to walk only on
snow, where not that many people were before me. Sun was reflected so strong
from snow, that even with sun glasses was hurting my eyes. I catched Leith on
the other side, so we manged to get quite high 4900m. When I turned around I
almost couldn’t believe what is behind me, I never saw anything like that
before by my self. Just amazing mountains and view of valley, on the side high
mountains and all around just snow. The silence which was around was so
different then any other silence’s which I experienced before. Amazing place.
At this height was difficult to catch breath, so every 10 steps break, move
again, break, all the last part was really difficult. We have unfortunately
lost Alex, so we waited and looked for him as the top was with many small hills
which you weren’t able to see what is behind. After 1,5 h without water and
suncream, French couple(which we have met several times before) told us that he
is waiting for us below.
Movie from the climbing part
Peak of something....
Artist :)
I couldn't stop watching it
I was actually there !
And more me
Instead of walking down, we started to slide down on snow parts on our asses. Great fun, much faster, easier for knees, and sliding from 5000m down :D:D We met Alex, took some water finally and another portion of suncream. After 1,5 h descending we got back to Base Camp again and I was really tired. First nap(10minutes) before lunch, then I ate and again went to sleep for next 3,5h. I think this was crucial for my recovery after stomach problems. After this nap I felt that it has finished and I needed to eat a lot and many different things in order to build up my energy again.
Way to see the lake
Sliding down :)
Again, I
have went through really difficult time, I was really fighting with my body and
my mind in order to make this happen. I had some thoughts about going back to
medical point in Manang, but in the end I have pushed and it worked. Good
lesson for future and I am kind of proud of my self after finishing it. From
this moment(and also descending 800m to Base Camp) I felt quite confident about
crossing the pass and next days with knees.
3.04 All
night was snowing, so we wondered if we should go back, as guide was saying it
is very dangerous, but well, we needed to move. Breakfast and going. The
rockslide area was actually safer with the snow which keeped everything
together then we crossed it before at day time. We started late, but on the way
we passed all the groups which started earlier. We got again to Shree Kharka
for early lunch with tea and snickers, then we off to Yak Kharka via Upper Khansar
which was abandoned and no one lives there any longer. So we had to climb up
there and descent to Yak Kharka (4050m), which turns out really long day in the
for us with difficult parts with melting snow. Day was foggy, so I didn’t take
even single picture, but as I was feeling better I could catch up more less
with guys speed. We should meet Dave and Richard here, but we have checked all
lodges and in one we got info that they left in the morning. So probably we
won’t see them again.
After Yak Kharka somewhere
Bridge, how many we have crossed...
Mountains?
4.04
Swiss rosty
again for breakfast, but as good as last one. Some faces which we have seen
before again showed up again, guys are going fast, I am trying to take as many
pictures as possible. At one of the stops Alex dropped his nex, so since the
afternoon he will use my long lense. After 3 h we got to Thorung Phedi at
4540m, wasn’t very difficult walk, but you can feel the height. We got to very
nice lodge, with chill out owner, super nice music, filter coffee, small bakery
and nice food, so off course we are staying here for night.At the evening we
made packing and get most of the things ready for the morning departure and
attack Thorung La.
More mountains?
Guess what?!
Yyyyyy....??????
Just before Thorung Phedi
At Thorung Phedi ! The big day is close !
We came from somewhere there
5.04 Waking up
4 am, cat porridge and boiled eggs for breakfast. Again, surprisingly warm
outside, so I am taking only 2 polar jackets without Gore-Tex. It is still
dark, so need to walk with head torch lights. I lead the first most steep part
to High Camp (4850m). We made it in 45 minutes(book 1,5 h), the sunrise has
just started so we could take some pictures(but the hands was getting really,
really cold without gloves).
View from High Camp
We
push further and make tea brake at 5050m, through really slippery, frozen snow
parts with really strong wind. Dangerous part and because of height also really
difficult to walk.
We go higher!
Hello SUN!!!
The
guy lives there only for season, but it must be freezing cold. No heating
inside, no toilet, ehhh nepali. It took us 30-45 minutes to finish some snack
and drinks and we continued climbing.
Here is the tea shop at 5050m
Yak's in front. Riding yak's!
Another panorama :)
Did I told that I love my NEX-6?
The "summit" group
Nice, isn't it?
We
reach the Thorung La around 9 am, so actually it is really good time. Remember
that here after 10-20 steps you need to take a small break in order to catch a
breath, there is not that much oxygen any more. Some photos, snickers prize and
after short while we were walking down. Guys just wanted to go, so I adapted to
them.
Pass by it self. Finally !
Here we are ! YUPI !
Almost Sir Slawomir Edmund Olesinski Hillary :D
The are quite a few praying flags....
Last photo there!
For
next 3 hours we decent more then 1000m. Walk difficult, very slippery at the
beginning, at the end very muddy and
plenty of loose stones and rocks, but well we smashed Throung La with our
speed. Around 12 we were at Chabarbu at 4190m where we took lunch.
Way down!
The path.....
Other side views
Just happy :)
We were
tired, but dhal bat filled our stomachs. After lunch we continued descending to
Ranipauwa (3710m), here shower (first in many days) and after small walk in
town we opened the first bottle of local Best Quality Marpha Apple Brandy, damn
it was awful, taste like roxi again. It wasn’t even standing next to apples. A
funny dutch guy joined us later in the evening and we finished pretty drunk
after 3 bottles of this car fuel. Here again we got Yak steak which were
amazing, big and soooo tasty. After the pass the landscapes has changed so
much, it was dry, not that green any more and mountains looked different here.
I wasn’t expecting it to be so different. Here we also met Dave and Richard again,
which made the pass day before us.
Kali Gandaki Valley
Isn't that amazing?
First panorama on the other side
The
next day suppose to start with hangover, but as we took brandy with water it
was surprisingly good. I woke up first, took breakfast and just relaxing. Guys
catch up later and we went off to Kagbeni, another 1000m down.
One of villages
The
trail was really nice through villages, with views of Dhaulagiri and no people
on the way. The only thing is the wind which is blowing really strong during
the whole day. We stayed in great place named Yak Donald, where they served
great things made out Yak meat. Last place where we could try it. Again we met
Richard with son and we had some nice time here.
More villages and mountains
Taraces
I just loved it there.
No description!
Finally something green!
This photo will be in new edition of Lonely Planet "Trekking in Nepal Himalaya"!
More green ?:)
Not exactly everywhere
This big hole between mountains is Thorugh La, doens't seem that big when you are actually there.
Clouds!
Last shots of Thorung La.
The peak on left is Dhaulagiri
Restricted area of Upper Mustang.
Annapurna in background
Kagbeni in the valley
Beloved Yac Donald !
Somewhere in Kagbeni
Very
beautiful village, different the ones we have seen before. Somehow climate and
atmosphere there was different. Difficult to describe.
Kagbeni
Hello in Kagbeni Dear Guests!!! Female prefered?
Praying wheels
7.04
I woke up early and went to village tour again. I visited budha school and
monastery, saw hindu people washing them selfs in the river(suppose to be holy
for them), them breakfast, book, lunch and off to Jomson, where we should take
our bus to Pokhara. We were walking for 2 hours on the river bed and wind was
so strong that sometimes it was stopping us. I haven’t been walking never in
such a strong wind before.
We came from there, like the cow.
In Kagbeni.
Some of articles used in buddist monastery
Today's special. I don't think that change the paint everyday.....
More buddist stuff
For the one which are interested in buddism
Main part of monastery
Somewhere in Kagbeni
Hindu at holy river in Kagbeni
What we are doing here???
Let's take a shower like others!
Morning in Kagbeni!
Jomson
didn’t look interesting so we took asap bus to next Ghasa, and from there
hoping to get next one to Beni(then to Pokhara). Bus ride was terrible, we got
back sits and it was so uncomfortable. We even didn’t make it to Ghasa, as road
was blocked just before. We walked 20 minutes to Ghasa Bus stop, but there
weren’t any more buses to Beni. So we stayed night here, nothing really
special.
On the way to Pokhara. Nepali knows the life truth!
Ghasa bus station
The next
morning accordingly to all people bus should be at 7 am, so we arrange
breakfast and were at bus stop 6:45, but drivers were playing some games, no
one in ticket counter and we got info that the bus will start when it will be
full. So waited for people until 9:30……… CRAP !!! When we finally moved it was
ok, within 1 hour we got to Tatopani where we took bath in hot springs(really
small ones, even worse then the ones at ABC Jinhu), then another bus to Beni
and here is problem. We got back sits, but driver was really fast not like
previous ones and road was even worse. Worst bus ride ever. I even once hit the
roof with my head on one of bumps. So terrible, all the way just holding
something. Apart of that it was so dusty that we ended covered in dust like
after several hours of ride in Dakar Rally. When we got to Beni, guys even
didn’t want to search for a bus, went directly to taxi and on tarmac road in 3
hours we got to Pokhara. We went to hotel which I stayed before, it was cheap,
nothing else to say about it. And then the best pizza in town at Pokhara City
Pizza. Trek was over.
Hello Pokhara again!
It was
amazing three weeks. Views, guys which I made it with, trying my self and
fighting with my body again. Simply amazing. Definitely I will remember this
trip for the rest of my life, one of the best three weeks. I think the pictures
are showing it. On top of that I have learned a bit about traveling, my self on
this journey and I end up some ideas about next steps, which I was actually counting
on before setting off. By far most stunning part of my trip. Sorry that there
are sooooo many of them, but what to do. ENJOY!!!!!
