Coffee and waterfalls

Bolaven Platue is elevated region in southern Laos. It is famous for coffee plantations - which are very popular between Thai tourists, waterfalls and great nature. Most of the tourist finish their route in the quite big city Pakse. If you travel further, basically is difficult to hit any white face around. 

The capital of province is Attapeu, very quiet on the way to Vietnamese border. There is big market with Chinese products, few small hotels, people afraid of white face and poor restaurants. I was hoping to make a loop around area, but roads south of Attapeu are terrible, so I came back almost the same way traveling more south.

Well, let's see how the Bolaven Platue looks like. It is amazing to see the landscape it is. Just at one moment the place rise approx. 1000 m about the ground level and thanks to that you get that many waterfalls around.  

I have seen few waterfalls in Thailand, smaller or bigger ones, but they didn't have much water due to dry season

Hello !! Traveler !

The most popular waterfalls are actually "on the ground" of some hotels of resorts and in order to see then you need to pay. Some hotels are very nice placed and as well at pretty good standards, with overview on the waterfall. Still worth it, so pay few thousands kips and enjoy :)

A lot of water. That means you can get wet......

Filmik z wodospadu. Moze zadziala :)

Laotian traveler :D

There as well smaller waterfalls. Those are for free :P

Most of the waterfalls are having access from the bottom. Here standing at the top of one.
A bit higher, there was a Buddhism temple.

A paper for each day of the month. Or for something else. No one was there and I couldn't ask....

Flower :)

Coffee. The real one :)

This particular coffee plantation, makes money mainly on tourists, renting rooms, serving nice cakes. Very nice and clean place, with some artificial waterfalls, gardens visited by many important and well know people.

A waterfall on Mekong. Not that high, but pretty wide.

Some local religion monuments. There were quite a few around, like a park and alleys between them.

Even one local guy was around to take me a picture :D

Plateau from the side. Impressive. Off course all around rice paddies.

Some local government office. Small......... Please tell me that Laos is such a poor country. Poor only for normal people. If you are in the politics - that's a different story......

Red soil everywhere. Super slippery if it get;s wet......

If you don't have a place to park. Find a banana plantation, proper tree and even rain is not a problem :D

If you haven't seen. Banana flower and bananas over :D

As for most of my time in Laos. It was raining almost every day.........

Sometimes roads are not exactly as you wish them to be.........

Tad Lo. I think this is most popular waterfall, but for me I got to some which were far better and wild.

After few days on Plateau, I went further south to famous laid back destination at Mekong called Si Phan Don - Four Thousands Islands. This was a place to relax a bit more, rest before a new part of my journey into Cambodia.

At first you need to get there by ferry. Bridge is being built and any time soon you will get there directly.

I have heard many stories how great place is and almost everyone suggested to go there. In reality wasn't exactly anything special. One thing was for sure good, the hotels. You can get really nice, fairly new hotel for good value(still far more expensive then Thailand) with two buses of Thai tourists partying hard all weekend gratis. I got my self a room in smaller hotel(I was the only guest) with a view on Mekong river(damn, it is a big river.......) and bike parked in the living room of the hotel owner.

Inside of the temple somewhere on the island.

You can travel on boat between islands, even to Cambodia for some short time and make a loop around island. There few small temples and rice paddies. Paddies everywhere.

Isn't that green beautiful?

Hola !! Farang !!!

In the end I like the place for chilling out. Very nice food in restaurants, cold beer with ice, wifi was working well and simply doing nothing for some days is all what you want.

On the way back to mainland in early morning I didn't catch main big ferry. Instead 3 long tail boats connected, small engine and woala - I'm on the other side :D

Just before Cambodia border you can visit Pha Pheng Falls. Biggest waterfall in southeast Asia. They are not pretty, high or even nature around is not special as everything is surrounded by food stalls, small theme park and hotels. Very popular place, but I was there very early in the morning, so I even didn't pay the entrance. Quick picture with huge, huge, huge amount of water passing(it is fall on Mekong) - very noisy as well and I left to Cambodia :)

A co tam w srodkowym Laosie?

Srodkowy Laos. Czas tu plynie troche wolniej. Wrecz, bardzo wolno. Malo przemyslu, duzo pol ryzowych i kilka drog asfaltowanych przecinajacych kraj. Co tu robic? Malo kto gada po angielsku, turystow mniej, co najwyzej w miastach przesiadkowych/po drodze do 4000 tysiecy wysp(taki popularny region na poludniu, gdzie tanio sie wynajmuje chatke z bambusa albo pokoj i patrzy jak Mekong plynie) robiac przyslowiowe nic. 

Buddyjskie ozdoby na malej ciezarowce oraz dla dunsko-obeznanych osobnikow SKAT, czyli Dunski Urzad Skarbowy :)

Tak wyglada standardowy, zapuszczony troszke budynek mieszkalno/handlowy. Tutaj zamozniejsza rodzina, gdyz ma klime. Na pierwszym planie wracamy ze szkoly. Klasyczna pozycja jezdziecka i dobry balans skutera.

Pozostalosci czasow francusko kolonialnych, tutaj schody do baszty a za nimi parking dla ciezko sprzetu budowlanego. Niestety wiekszosc budynkow i pozostalosci po francuzach jest w oplakanym stanie, nawet te przerobione na hotele zazwyczaj nadaja sie do remontu. Szkoda.

Jeden z niewielu kosciolow katolickich w Laosie. Moze nie do konca to kosciol, bo na otwartym terenie, ale byl oltarz przy tej wysokiej skale i miejsca do siedzenia na lawkach/kamieniach. Nie widoczne na zdjeciu chmary wyglodnialych komarow...........................

Oto Laos. Mieszczanski.

Efekty wspolpracy i pojednania za czasow Zwiazku Radzieckiego, spotkalem rowniez most wybudowany/ufundowany przez przyjaciol Wegrow.

W srodkowym Laosie wybralem sie do Sepon(czasem pisane Xepon), gdzie byly bardzo ciezkie naloty USA, duze bitwe w okolicy(poniewaz szlak Ho Chi Minh'a przechodzil) oraz jedna z wiekszych kopalni w Azji zlota i miedzi.

Na zdjeciu Old Sepon, Stare Sepon do ktorego trzeba zboczyc ze 2 km z glownej drogi. Po nalotach ocalal tylko self banku oraz pobliska swiatynia. Opisane jako atrakcja turystyczna, w rzeczywistosci jest to tylko ten maly kwadrat z cegly i zbrojeniem porosniety trawa. Rozne atrakcje - rozne kraje.

Tutaj sciana swiatyni buddyjskiej, wcieaz jeszcze z dziurami po kulach. Jak widac na zdjeciu, mnisi - jak zreszta wiekszosc laotanczykow dba o lad i porzadek. A moze to wcale nie jest takie wazne w zyciu?

Pamietam, ze w Polsce istnieje sformulowanie jak "Handel Obwozny", ale uwazam ze w Laosie nabiera ono innego, bardziej dosadnego znaczenia :D

Ciekaw jestem czy Inspekcja Transportu Drogowego dopuscila by do ruchu taki pojazd ? :D

Byly bitwy, skopalismy tylki amerykanom wiec nalezy to uwiecznic muzeum. Z zaskoczeniem musze przyznac, ze muzeum naprawde ladnie zrobione(nie dawno otwarte, to moze dlatego). Bylo opisane ladnie, czasem nawet po angielsku i dwie osoby obslugi(one juz nie koniecznie po angielsku o co kaman), jedyny ja jako zwiedzajacy.

No wiec szczatki zestrzelonego samolotu

I bomby wszedzie.

Otwarcie nowego przejscia granicznego. Tak sie okazuje przyjazn :D

Z Chinczykami wciaz za Pan brat......

Apropo sympatii do amerykanow, ktorych tak bardzo nie lubia w tej okolicy to na zdjeciu ciezarowki na jednym z check pointow przed granica z Wietnamem. Ciezarowki na wietnamskich numerach, ktorych na glownych drogach mozna spotkac calkiem sporo produkcji amerykanskiej. Wiekszosc Freightliner-ow, ale rowniez kilka Peterbiltow.

Tutaj kawalek kopalnii Sepon, jedynej w Laosie odkrywkowej i jednej z wiekszych w tej czesci Azji. Widzialem tylko kilka gor "rozebranych", niektore naprawde sporych rozmiarow ale niestety nie dalo sie blisko podjechac bo straznicy blokowali wjazd. W tym momencie kopalnia jest wlasnoscia Australijczykow, ale chca sie jej pozbyc i sprzedac chinczykom bo zlota juz tam dawno nie ma, a koszty wydobycia miedzi sa bardzo wysokie(tak mowia......)

Troche sprzetu maja, a to byl taki boczny parking :)

Aby, zobaczyc choc kawalek tej kopalnii to prawie 1,5 h drogi szutrowej w jedna strone, mijajac kolumny ciezarowek, po dziurach, przez strumienie itp. No, ale cos innego w koncu do zobaczenia.

No, tak ale wspominalem ze tutaj w sumie czas wolno plynie.......
Nad brzegiem Mekongu siedzac, popijajac Beer Lao z lodem(oczywiscie, ze z lodem, choc to bardziej tajskie. W Laosie nie bardzo to przyjmuja)

Siedzac na tarasie unoszacym na wodzie, planujac, rysujac i czytajac ksiazke......

Jedzac o taka sobie rybke z grila wraz z zestawem warzywek i makaronu ryzowego

O i nawet robiac jakis trening grupowy.....

Kosz na smieci zrobiony ze starej opony. Ten pomnysl mi sie akurat poboda. Mozna takie kosze spotkac bardzo czesto.

Trzymanie wymarzonego samochodu w domu, na podlodze wylozonej blyszczacymi plytakmi nie jest niczym dziwnym w tych regionach.

Kilka zdjec z  Savankhet. Sredniej wielkosci miasta tutaj. To jest dom Souphanouvong, czyli pierwszego prezydenta Demokratycznej Republiki Laos-u, lidera komunistycznej partii i glownego dowodzacego podczas wojny z amerykanami. Czyli, jak by nie mowic bohatera narodowego.

Jedna z niewielu swiatyn chinskich buddystow w Laosie.

I pozostalosc po kolonialnych czasach, czyli kosciol katolicki.

W okolicach mozna znalezc pozostalosci po imprium khmerow, choc nie do konca o nie dbaja.

A to moj hotel. Duze pokoje, bardzo wysok sufit zeby bylo chlodniej. Stara, 20 letnia klima i ciagle wysiadajace zarowki, bo nikt nie remontowal go od lat i instalacja elektryczna rozpada sie w rekach(sam naprawialem karnisz, bo "opiekun" nie potrafil obslugiwac srubokreta......)

Bardzo interesujaca i warta zobaczenia jest jaskinia Konglor. Ja bylem w trakcie monsunu, wiec duzo, duzo wody. A dlaczego ona jest problemem? Ano dlatego, ze jest to jaskinia ktora zwiedza sie plynac lodzia. Ponad 7 km wycieczki mala lodka, czasami siedzac mozna bylo dotknac reka sufitu, a czasem komory wielkie na ponad 100 m w gore i 300 w szerokosci. Niesamowite miejsce. Kawalek trasy przechodzi sie na nogach, gdzie sa formy skalne do ogladania i powinno byc podswietlone, ale jak to w Laosie - znowu problem z instalacja elektryczna i nie dziala. Zdjec ze srodka brak, bo za malo swiatla, a lodka caly czas w ruchu. 

Wody duzo rowniez z nieba lecialo tego dnia. Generalnie Laos to duzo bardziej wilgotne miejsce niz Tajlandia. Zdecydowanie najwiecej razy podczas mojej podrozy przemoklem w Laosie.

A jak chwile nie pada, to nawet ladnie sie zaczyna robic :)

Zmiany w Laosie nastepuja. Powoli, nie zawsze w dobrym kierunku, ale ludziom na pewno co raz lepiej i latwiej. Turystow duzo i na nich tez zarabia sie sporo. Hotele, atrakcje, wycieczki itp sa drozsze niz w Tajlandii(a standard duzo, duzo gorszy), jedzenie jezeli kupione lokalnie to ciut tansze, ale rowniez mniej bogate w przyprawy i roznorodnosc. Ludzie mniej usmiechnieci i bardziej ostrozni w kontaktach z bialymi. Niestety, w mojej opinii ustroj panstwowy mocno sie odcisnal na spoleczenstwie i np. pomimo wolnosci religijnej, wszelkiego rodzaju miejsc kultu(czy buddyjskich, czy innych) jest bardzo malo, w porownaniu np. do Tajlandii.

Laos. Troche dziwny kraj.......

Plain of Jars

After stunning north Laos, thousands of turns, mountains, amazing views and great roads(well, not quality ones for sure) I started to go south. Skipped Vang Vieng(mekka for all backpackers) and Vientiane(capital), which didn't sound interesting as well. Too many tourist(after experience in Luang Pabang) and I was looking for something more quiet.

Plain of Jars was still quite on the route of many travelers, but was also on the way south. 

City where you want to stay is Phonsavan, I spent first few hours there on looking for a place to stay and tires(my rear tires was already quite flat and front was wearing out as well).

No big results, new spark plugs, new oil and few small adjustments. Then, chilling out in the evening with some new people.

The next morning I got up early, packed and left for the excursion.

There are 3 different sides which you can visit, each one separately ticketed. Site number 1 is most popular and easiest to access, then other 2 you need to drive a bit longer on the gravel road in order to get there.

At first I got lost, as the signs are very poor and base on the distances written on my GT-Rider map I turned too early. Thanks to that I got to a huge building site and widest paved roads in all Laos. 

There are build the 5 biggest golf course in all Asia(If I remember well), money comes mainly from Japan, but airport close by can't operate international flights, so I think there will be a problem to get there. It is really impressive. After seeing very poor sights in north Lao getting to place where so many trucks, equipment and people working for creating a golf course....... Everyone has it's own way of developing country......

The widest paved road in Laos.....

So, jars. That's why I came here. The origin have many explanations and actually still people argue what was the reason for placing them. Personally I am closest to believe that they were tombstones. After death, bodies where cremated and the ashes placed inside of jars. More honorable position in the society and more wealthy you were, bigger jar you could get. So, basically it was kind of grave yard for them. For me that sounds reasonable.  

The story behind that particular one is funny. As scientists started to investigate why one jar has been covered with a cap. Why only one? Does any other had a cap as well? Tourist really like that stories as well and if you talk with other fellow travelers, you will hear interesting theories :)

The truth is very simple. Locals few years back(when the sights weren't that popular), took this "cap"stone which was lying next to the jars and covered one of them, for tourist to feel more interested. Heard from a local guide which remember the place when the stone was lying on the ground.

Jars are carved from one big piece of stone and they had to brought from long distances as they haven't found any trace of that type of stones close by.

Jars.........

I think it look like a plain, doesn't it?

Hello traveler !

Road to one of the sights.....

To get there you need to cross a bridge

And walk through rice paddy. I love that green.......

Another important fact, that this area was heavily bombed by Americans during Vietnamese war and surprisingly those jars have survived. Impressive remembering that on Laos at this time 5 times more bombs where dropped then during all WWII. Wow !

All of the sights are placed on small hills. I think that is common for all cultures, where graveyards and culture of those who passed away was(and is) important.

Sorry for polish, but NASI TU BYLI !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well, seeing polish advertisements in Laos was quite surprising :D

Laos, full of surprises :D

Reception desk decoration.............

Traveling....... do I need to explain?

Plain of Jars. If you like jars, go there. Apart of that not much to do and places gets really crowded when organized tours are arriving. Get up early, get your own mean of transport and enjoy the views without crowds.